![]() ![]() This will help ensure adequate penetration during welding.Ĩ) Slide the bungs in the tube and weld using the machine of your choice. 6.5"-3.75"= 2.75.Ħ) Tape off the cut line and make the cut with the tool of your choosing (chop saw, ban saw, cutting wheel)ħ) Clean the edges of the tubing and grind a 45* bevel with your grinder. (My cheapo HF bender was pushing it)ĥ) To mark your final cut, measure from your bend center line the length of the passenger side portion of the drag link - length of the TRE assembly. This mimics the bend in the stock drag link, allowing for use in both stock and flipped position. This mark will serve as the center line for the bend as well as a reference point for the final cut.Ĥ) Using your bender with a 1.5" die, create a 25* bend. In my case, this measured 3.75".ģ) In preparation of bending the tube, make a mark on the tubing the length of the driver side portion of the drag link - length of the TRE assembly. Measure the length of the TRE assembly from the center of the joint to the end of the bung. I came up with 6.5" on the passenger side and 35" on the driver side.Ģ) Assemble the standard TRE's with the jam nut threaded all the way forward and 1/2" of threads exposed in front of the bung. Measure from this mark to the center of both TRE's and record these numbers. ![]() Allow 24 hours curing time before installing the TRE's and installing on the Jeep.ġ) Make a mark on the stock drag link at the center of the bend. This is my first real TIG project).ħ) Prep your metal and paint the finished product. I will be using my Miller Diversion 180 TIG for this application (Go easy on me. This will help ensure adequate penetration during welding.Ħ) Slide the bungs in the tube and weld using the machine of your choice. In my case this is 59"-(2 x 3.75")= 51.5"Ĥ) Tape off the cut line and make the cut with the tool of your choosing (chop saw, ban saw, cutting wheel)ĥ) Clean the edges of the tubing and grind a 45* bevel with your grinder. It will be the overall length of the stock tie rod - (2) length of TRE assembly. In my case, this measured 3.75".ģ) Now mark your tubing for the cut. In my case, my tie rod was set at 59 inches.Ģ) Assemble the offset TRE's with the jam nut threaded all the way forward and 1/2" of threads exposed in front of the bung. This measurement does not have to be exact since the new tie rod is adjustable. (1) RH 7/8" Hex Head TRE Tube Adapter 18TPIġ) Take a measurement of the stock tie rod from the center of the tie rod ends. (1) LH 7/8" Hex Head TRE Tube Adapter 18TPI I will separate this write-up into two posts for those only looking to replace one component at a time. ![]() I decided to document the whole process to serve as a guideline for others looking to replace the stock components without breaking the bank. Everything was purchased from Ruff Stuff with the exception of the offset TRE's which are currently on backorder on the site. ![]() After doing my research, I ordered DOM tubing, TRE's and bungs for a total of $270 with shipping. After shopping around a bit, I wasn't happy with the prices on aftermarket units available so I chose to build my own tie rod and drag link. After 3 years and close the 30k miles, its finally time to upgrade the stock steering components. ![]()
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